Cosplay Crystal Only

Fate Stay Night - Rider

Paper Mask Tutorial

by: Megan A. Johnson (Deviantart)

Base
First, I suggest you get a hard (heavy weight) plastic face mask -preferably a full faced craft mask. And I say hard because I've learned that some are made of a harder plastic while others are made of a flimsy cheap plastic which doesn't seem very durable or strong. If you can bend it ridiculously easy, than keep looking!
-If you can build a 3-D face out of clay or have access to a plaster life-cast, then those will work just as well if not better for your mask-base.

#1. Designs/Features
Now, you can either build up facial features or designs using clay (and either non-drying modelling clay or air-drying clay will work) on top of the plastic mask or you can just leave it as is.

Release Agent materials
You can cover the mask in seran wrap or just a layer of vaseline to protect the clay(...especially if it's the non-drying modelling clay.), as well as to act as a release agent to make removal of the paper mask from the base easier. I've heard of non-stick cooking spray being used, but I've never used it before.

I've learned that:

• seran wrap can create a bumpy surface because the plastic wrap doesn't adhere smoothly to the plastic of the mask, so that can prove to be VERY frusterating...but when the over-cast paper mask is dry you can just peel the seran wrap off of the backside very easily...so, it's got it's pro's and cons.
• vaseline makes for a much smoother work surface, but the paper overcast doesn't dry as well 'till it's been removed from the plastic mask base. You need to have the paper mask dry all the way through before you start applying fabric and paint and sealants -if possible. But, after you've gotten a thick enough buildup of paper and feel confident in removing it from the plastic form, you can let it dry and then keep adding more layers.

Paper Requirements
I've read of people using brown paper bags for their masks, but I've only used tissue paper (same as what you'd find in gift bags) as well as the paper that is used in stores to wrap your breakables in -ask if you can have some of it, this stuff is pretty good for building up thickness quickly. But make very small scraps of this thicker paper so you don't have as many risks of wrinkles and uneven surfaces.

#20-#12 Paper Application
Tear your tissue paper up into little pieces and thin strips. I do it as I go along, but you can have yours ready before you start -up to you.

• I've used a slightly watered down Elmer's Glue mixture; I've added some powdered wall paper paste to it which gives it an eggnogg kind of texture; and I've used just straight glossy Modge Podge. All of which work perfectly fine.
• I use a paint brush..medium size. Just dip your paint brush into your glue mixture and coat the plastic mask in a layer of it and then add either one or a few pieces of tissue paper at a time and then coat those with the paintbrush. You don't need to glob it on, just add an even thin layer over the tissue paper..but make sure the paper is thoroughly wet with each layer( the paper should darken when it's thoroughly wet).

Make sure you cover the mask (or just the area you are working on) with a complete layer -in other words, none of the mask/layer below is showing. Be especially sure that you pay alot of attention to the nose area, you want to make sure it's a strong structure.

• Now...I've started using black tissue paper between layers and I suggest you do the same as it makes it easier to tell how thick your layers are.

To explain in depth
Put down a layer of dark or black tissue paper and paint it over with your glue mixture, then start layering on top of that with a lighter colored tissue paper -keep adding layers 'till you can no longer see the black underneath it. When you reach that point, add another layer of black and do it again.

• I suggest using small pieces of tissue paper for tight areas like the nose, bridge, around the eyes, small spaces like those. I tend to use larger pieces on the forehead and cheeks -but be careful 'cause you're more likely to get creases and wrinkles with bigger pieces and your finished product won't look as smooth.
• A tip: When applying many layers in one sitting -once the paper starts getting really soggy from the glue and wants to tear every time you drag your brush across it, it's time to set it aside and let it dry for a while. Maybe just 30mins. to an hour before adding some more layers. Again, don't add too much of the glue mixture...spread it out smoothly. You'll be able to tell when it get's too soggy and if you're paper is wet enough or not after a little while.

Unless you're using a disposable paint brush, I suggest you use soap and warm water to clean your paint brush shortly after you're done using it. -Especially with the Modge Podge, that stuff dries quickly! And make sure your glue mixture is in an air-tight container...tupperware works well for this!

#14. Removal
I can't tell you how many layers to build up 'cause I never have counted my own and I think it's differant with each mask. I use a little test...

• To tell when the mask is ready to be removed from the mask base, stick your finger between the paper and the mask and gently wriggle it loose...if you're afraid that the mask may tear or cave in upon removal, then it's not ready -keep adding more layers, but if it feels strong enough and you're not worried, it's ready -but still be careful and gentle as you lift it from the mask base. But as you lift it, gently wriggle the mask from side to side...take it slow!
• Again, the vaseline underneath or the plastic/seran wrap will act as a release agent and should make lifting the paper mask from the plastic/clay alot easier.

#16/#17. Trimming
I tend to trim the outer edges with some small craft scissors and for the eyes I use an exacto knife.

• You may be able to sand the surface with a fine grade sand paper after adding a couple layers of gesso, but I've not had much luck with it. There are sealants out there that you can apply which will prepare your work surface for sanding -just read the bottle for it.

#23 -I use a white, spray-on gesso to add a smoother and harder surface to my masks.

Finishing touches
I use a spray-on adhesive on the backside to apply my thick brocade fabric and thin braided trim on the edges for comfort and looks. Don't apply too much adhesive 'cause it'll soak through your fabric and possibly ruin it. After you've applied your adhesive let it dry a little 'till it's tacky and then apply your fabric.

• Again, I use small scissors to trim the fabric on the outer edges and an exacto knife around the eyes.
• I use craft glue (the kind that comes in the gold bottle with the white top...I forget the name of it...) on the edges to attach the tie-on ribbons...so pull up the side a little, put some glue in there and then put your ties/ribbons in. Let that stuff dry and I do suggest being a bit heavy on the glue, actually. This also applies for the top if you want to add feathers or something else. LOTS of glue!!!
• In effect, you are sandwiching your ribbons and/ or feathers between the backside of the paper mask and the fabric.

Extras
#13 If you want upraised designs on your mask, some people use hot glue, ropey trim, thick thread, or even pipe cleaners. You can use those or air-drying clay. DAZ and Paperclay are pretty good to use -though they take several hours to dry and they turn whiter as they dry, so that's a good way to let you know when it's done.

#21 -Be sure to also add a couple layers of paper over the upraised designs so it blends better and less chance of it coming off of the mask later on from wear and tear or coat it in a couple layers of your glue mixture.

• I suggest making sure that your mask base is wide and deep enough for your own face so that your mask will be comfortable for you to wear. And adding onto the nose a little with clay before applying the paper might be a good idea. Keep in mind that the thickness of the fabric and the trim you add to the backside of the mask will take away from the room available for your face...so after the backing has been applied, your mask may not fit as it had earlier.
• I suggest covering the paper and paint in a polyurethane sealant. I believe I get mine through DecoArt acrylic paint which I've found at all three of my local craft/art stores. I get a nice little bottle for about $1.00 -it's a good thing to apply so that the paint and glue are sealed in and moisture doesn't bother them so much. Or get a spray on sealant, matte or gloss -up to you.

• I also suggest getting a spray or paint on gloss coat. I use a spray on...it acts as a sealant on top of the polyurethane and it adds a very nice shiny/glossy coating which is very attractive.
• If adding a handle, be sure to first find out whether the wearer is right or left handed so you know which side to attach the handle to. Then lift up the fabric on the backside at the appropriate edge, apply lots of glue and then stick the handle's tip in. I use tiny clothespins to hold the fabric flap closed over the handle. Or you can use hot glue.
• I tend to use Puffy fabric paint on the edges to give the mask a 'finished' look or you can add some corded trim, that way the edges look good, too.

Otherwise, acrylic paints, fabric, feathers, sequins, decorative papers, dryer sheets, glitter, gems, etc. can be used for decoration. Don't allow your imagination to be limited and try your best to be unique in your designs. It's ok to be inspired by another's work, but outright copying of someone else's art is NOT cool, and I don't care how the saying goes, plagarism is not a compliment to anyone.